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June 12, 2006
Response to your comments/emails
Thank you very much for all of your responses!
If you haven’t received a response from me as yet, don't worry you will. I will either email you directly or answer your questions on this site for others to see, as they may have a similar situation to you.
Best wishes and will chat soon.
Posted by karlchampley at June 12, 2006 12:48 AM
Comments
This is for Karl Champley:
I have watched DIY to Rescue many times. Thanks for having such a great show. I have a several questions I hope you can answer?
We are installing a new Mahongany glass panel entry door to the front of our house. The door is unfinished right now. We know we need to sand it and finish it. Our problem is what product to use to finish it.
We live in Austin, TX and of course we have lots of heat and sun. Our front door gets the morning sun and then is shaded by the porch most of the day. We do get some rain on the porch with heavy rains at times, but not all the time.
We would like to put a product on it that will last so we don't need to refinish every year. We also do not want to paint it. We can do the work ourselves, we just don't know what product would be best to use for this weather and type of wood door.
If you can assists us it would be greatly appreicated. If you need more information please let me know.
Posted by: Bee Reynolds at June 13, 2006 5:18 PM
Need HELP! in a BIG WAY !!I have "cottage cheese" ceilings in my whole house that has continually flaked off into the floor for 20 years. Repairs to ceiling will not stay either. I am removing them and have cover
the 1st room with kiltz...it just rolls off the
ceiling in lengths after dry. Can't put a texture over it. Did my original workman not do
something correct...is the drywall defective or
is there a process/sealer that I can use to make
"SOMETHING" adhere to these ceiling.
Thanks,
Nancy
Posted by: Nancy Arp at June 15, 2006 9:45 AM
Karl, I have some type of hardboard siding on my home. Is determining what kind of hardboard it is, something I as a homeowner can determine? I'm beginning to see some signs of damage and want to be sure I am not eligible for warranty replacement or legal action replacement
Posted by: Gene at June 19, 2006 5:24 PM
On the DIY episode "A Patio Roof To Pass The Test", they used a two piece membrane roof.
Can you please tell me who makes this roofing system and where I can buy it?
Thanks,
Bill Williams
Posted by: Bill Williams at June 19, 2006 7:16 PM
What is the difference between wall tile and floor tile that will be used in a shower. Do you look for rough tile so to keep slippage to a minumum or is there a special tile that you use. We have looked at marble wall tile but feel that it would be too slick for the floor. How do you go about this.
Thaks,
James Hoffman
Posted by: James Hoffman at June 19, 2006 8:18 PM
Hi Karl,
We love watching your show! We are facing a dilemma and really need your help.
We have a concrete subfloor in our living room and want to get hardwood floors.
All our research showed that we should go for engineered wood over concrete but now nobody has given us the pros and cons for floating the floor versus glue it down to the concrete.
Can you please advise what method is best suited for the concrete floors?
Hi ya,
Thanks for watching!
It's frustrating isn't it when no one can give you a straight answer these days!
OK. If your concrete sub floor is a slab on ground with no basement I recommend you go for the floating floor. Because you can lay down a waterproof membrane (Plastic sheet minimum 6ml. or your flooring manufacturers recommendation) prior to installing your floor. This is important because after heavy rain, moisture can rise up through the slab causing your floor to warp and buckle. Make sure you lap and tape the joins and run the plastic membrane up the walls behind the base boards, then cut off flush at the top.
I personally prefer the glue down method (feels more solid) but only if there is a minimum of 18 inches of dry space or a room underneath!
Good luck and let me know how it goes. don't forget to pick up a warranty with your new floor.
Posted by: Puneet at June 21, 2006 10:19 PM
PLEASE HELP IAM TRING TO GET MORE ROOM IN THE ATIC MY HUSBAND IS IN IRAQ AND I DON'T KNOW HOW TO START I HAVE ASK A LOT OF PEOPLE , SO I THINK NO ONE KNOWS HOW
Posted by: dawn at June 22, 2006 5:28 PM
We will be moving to new development in Florida which will use a septic system. I have heard that you cannot use a garbage disposal with a septic system. Is this true? Thanks for the help.
Posted by: Rick at June 23, 2006 1:51 PM
I am hoping that you can help me or point me in the right direction. I have a white rough stone fireplace that is from floor to ceiling with a slate topped stone bench attached. It was built in the 70's. The front is stained with black ash and the bottom of the bench is also stained and dirty. I have no idea what to use to clean it. I have spent countless hours on the web. I obviously do not know how to search properly. I am a 55 year old woman living alone, HELP me please. Thank you for your time.
Shirley Q
Posted by: Shirley Q at June 24, 2006 3:19 PM
I have a new 10x8 metal storage building to assemble. I have an old concrete slab in the backyard that is 6x16 that I would like to use as a base – it measures 3 1/2’ on the front side and 4’ on the back side from my fence however running along the concrete slap, on the fence side, is a very shallow buried 6” pool over flow PVC pipe. I bought slotted concrete blocks for my floor joist and 2x6 10’ pressure treated lumber. Now that I have been tying to lay the joist on top of the slap and in the slots for the concrete blocks I find that I cannot level the slotted concrete blocks due to the pool overflow pipe. It has been suggested that I rethink my plans and put the concrete slotted blocks on top of the soil and level with sand and spacers on the concrete slab - which I’m concerned that the sand would wash away making the building unstable. I was trying to use 10' of the slab for my width if at all possible. I’m open to all suggestions on how to build my flooring and assemble my building.
Posted by: David Matthews at June 25, 2006 1:47 PM
This is for Karl Champley I am wanting to build a new bed for our bedroom and raise it higher than it already is. We have a Queensize bed. Are there any suggestions you can give as where to start. I am doing the bedroom in a simply country theme if that helps.
Thank you for your help in advance
Regina in Tx
Posted by: Regina Taeger at June 25, 2006 5:16 PM
On one of the TV shows I saw a new residential garage door that rolls up in a cylinder much like commercial overhead doors do. Now I cannot find the product and cannot remember the manufacture. Can you help, I cannot use a conventional door or opener because of an HVAC duct in the garage. Thanks for the help.
Posted by: Gary Wenig at June 25, 2006 9:34 PM
I recently bought a dining table that has some damage to the top of it. I figured I could refinish it myself. I believe the top is laminated over what looks like partical board. I would like to refinish it in a lighter stain. Can this be done? I think if I sand it then the fake wood look will be gone. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Lori
Posted by: Lori at July 9, 2006 12:02 PM
We love your show. Have question. To make a room bigger do you a=paint the wall darker and celinglighter or b- walls lighter and ceiling darker? Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Answer: Both.
To make a room larger it’s best to use lighter colors.
To stretch the room in size I recommend lighter walls and to make the ceilings seem higher use a flat white or light color as well.
Recessed lights will also increase the feeling of height in a room and large mirrors on walls give greater depth.
If you need to prime: tint the primer to match the finish coat. They will do this at the paint store for no extra cost that way you will save $ and your time.
Best of luck!
Posted by: Carol at July 9, 2006 1:02 PM
Help .. I have a problem, my concrete floor have water stain and wet drywall ,is it water damage but there has no water line and the window and base board trim are peeling ,smell like mold how do i determine where these water come from ? it from outside or inside ? How do i fix the problem? Thank a lot
Posted by: tiffeny at July 11, 2006 12:13 AM
I saw on a show one time that they textured over a fireplace. Then on another show, they painted over it. I'm trying to find out what preprations you need to do b/4 doing either one of these. Does anyone have ideas? Thx aj~.
Hi,
It's best if you can remove the existing surface coating so the new finish or paint can properly adhere to the surface. But best talk to the provider of the finish you wish to use as they all have recommended preperations. Account for the heat as well when selecting a finish!
Good luck
Posted by: aj~ at July 13, 2006 8:14 PM
I have bought a set of antique glasses from a thrift store. They are a nice set, but they look like they have been put throught the dish washer too many times, and there is a bad film on the actual glasses. Is there anyway to get the film off the glasses?
Hi Joseph,
No I do not. However let me look into it and if I find a good solution I will let you know.
Posted by: Joseph at July 13, 2006 10:44 PM
Hello, Karl.
I cannot calm down! I entered the "America's Biggest Packrat" contest and am a finalist! Yeehaa!!! I need "the champ" Champley and DIY to rescue my horrendous downstairs. It wants to be a piano bar family room (it told me so), but now it is just a concrete jungle of miscellaneous hodgepodge. We have gotten the septic fixed and just need our makeover, so please be a gem, Karl, and help us complete our mess! I have a tour of my packrat file cabinets and bric-a-brac in my classroom waiting for you to see, as well. I can outpile anyone (and subpile those piles!!)! We have a lizard, Philbert, who wants to meet you too. There is a puppet show waiting here in PA also (if you do not know the nine parts of speech, you will after my puppet show song). There is so much fun to be had on Wasted Spaces, so "carpet diem," or "carpe diem," and come on up to southwestern PA, Karl. I'll clear some room for you to work around. Give our clutter a purpose!!
Many thanks to you and the DIY crew, and waiting impatiently for your expertise,
Melissa Monyok (fingers crossed)
Hi Melissa,
Exciting! I will also keep my fingers crossed. Looking forward to meeting you and Phibert. I love reptiles and used to also rescue reptiles and native animals back home in Oz. So Philbert and I will be great mates.
Best of luck
Posted by: Melissa Monyok at July 15, 2006 1:26 PM
Help! I am applying a skip trowel texture to a wall that is currently a painted orange peel texture (flat paint-several coats) I am using a premixed joint-compound for the treatment and it is 'bubbling' as it dries whether applied thick or thin. Should I be using a different compound? Why is it bubbling on some walls and not on others? I have called around to plasterers and drywall suppliers and no one seems to have an answer. Please reply quickly as I am in the middle of a job that I need to move forward on. Thank-you so much. -Victoria
Hi ya,
OK. the surface needs to be roughed up a little to enable a better bond. It bubbles when the compound ddoes not absorb into the surface. You can also use TSP. This is a solution that many painters use before applying various types of coatings. Give it a try. Also a slower setting compound will also help you.
Good luck
Posted by: Victoria Roberge at July 24, 2006 12:35 PM
From "DIY to the Rescue"
episode DTTR-506
Hi.
Where can I find the plans for the acrylic block bar from the episode reference above?
Hi Lance,
Not sure if there are any plans?
However will check for you ASAP.
Posted by: Lance Short at July 31, 2006 3:12 PM
We are going to install a 5/8" engineered hardwood over a damaged wood floor in our living room. Would we still need an underlay as it is above ground and there would be no moisture problem and if you do recommend underlay could you explain why. Thank you in advance for your help.
Posted by: Carol Corsetti at August 3, 2006 9:19 AM
I have been trying to fit 3 room into two rooms.
my living room and dining rooms are closed in with a drop ceiling because of the air ducts. i use the dining room for a family room but need a space for the dining room. There is a hole in tha wall where it was started but afraid to continue.
I just can't figure out how it will all fit with a fireplace and then a huge unit in between the two rooms. it is enclsed but is seems like it should be som place else. This make the living room off balance. Please help I can send picture.
Posted by: Donna S. Dean at August 15, 2006 7:58 PM
I looked on the diy site on repairing a leaky spigot, but all it said was for a bad stem? Is there just a washer or ring to replace? Mine is a Woodford anti-siphon,model 11?
Hi Don,
My best suggestion here is to speak to the supplier. It is a simple fix. But best to run it by them.
Goodluck.
Posted by: don miller at August 16, 2006 5:03 PM
Hello, I have a question about a cement floor. I have what used to be a front porch, which was later enclosed. I decided to take the wall out between the porch and our kitchen. I am going to lay down Congoleum duraceramic tile because of the cement floor, but am wondering, can I glue the underlayment to the cement or do I need to try to put down some 2x4's and use plywood first. The cement is not very smooth. I was trying to keep the two floors even but the boards would make it a step up. Any suggestions? Thanks. Dale
Posted by: Dale at August 20, 2006 1:34 PM
Need to refinish existing kitchen cabinetry. They are a light wood that has been stained & finished to a medium wood tone. Have a few deep scratches to repair also. Bought a kit called "Restorzit." They claim stripping & refinishing is not needed with this kit. I am skeptical, but willing to try it. Have you heard of it? Also, please advise on how to repair those deep scratches. Thank you.
Posted by: Christi Williamson at September 6, 2006 2:59 PM
I have removed tile from the backsplash around my kitchen and I am tring to figure out how to removed the glue they use on the sheetrock so that I can put something else or paint it. Can you help me.
thanks
greg
Posted by: greg glombowski at September 8, 2006 9:55 AM
a corvette impacted our house at 120mph, approx. are you interested in producing a show on this project?
Hi Tim,
Maybe for Americas most wanted.
MMMM log onto diynetwork.com and click on be on diy. Give it a go.
I guess you are all AOK?
If you are on a corner. Maybe you could build a steel or concrete bollard and try to blend it in to the surroundings.
Good luck!
Posted by: TIM ENGLE at September 17, 2006 8:58 AM
Karl,
Great show! In the not to distant past you aired a show with the replacement of the kitchen flooring. If I remember correctly you used a new product possibly a "Real Stone" Laminate Flooring (stone or stone composition over substrate, which after installation you had to use a special grouting to complete). If so, what are brand names and where did you get the product?
Note: a link listing products (by category) you have used on the program would be very helpful.
Thanks,
Richard
Hi mate,
Let me check on this one. It was a petty good product with a limestone composite. I grout was simply a flexible grout due to the expansion and contraction of this product.
Posted by: Richard at September 29, 2006 6:08 PM
Hi
I am a fan or your show!. How about doing a show on DYI hurricane shutters? With so many last year in Florida, it is not only a must to have them , but to repair the cement holes where the anchor goes, as the wind took shutters out because of the strenght and made the holes bigger. How about the best way of protecting french doors, without heavy investments :)
Keep it going! cool program!
Armando
Thanks Armando,
Not a bad idea.
It is probably a good idea when they are building new homes to incorporate an anchor strap that can be a support for these shutters.
Just finished building a home in New Orleans. They have just adopted the international building code where the windows and the rest of the structure need to withstand up to 130 mph wind gusts.
Thanks for watching. All the best!
Posted by: Armando Pita at September 30, 2006 8:37 AM
ionolsen23 I like your site
Thanks Karel!
However it needs updating.
Posted by: karel at October 19, 2006 5:18 PM
Hi Karl,My husband and I watch your show all the time and have gotten some very good tips. We would like to put pavers over the asphalt on our driveway.What would be the best way to do this?
Hi Betty,
If your asphalt driveway is stable and not soft in areas you can pave over it. It is best to mix in some cement to the sand base that is screeded as it will form a solid and stable base, however it can flex in case there is movement from the existing driveway. Make sure you properly mud (cement) all of the perimeter pavers and allow for a decent fall with your screed (away from house).
If you have any soft spots in your driveway. Dig them out, compact some crushed rock prior to your screed.
Good luck and remember your finished height!
Best regards and thanks for checking out our show!
Posted by: Betty Cantando at October 19, 2006 8:55 PM
I've got an unfinished bonus room that I want to turn into a hangout for my 16yr old son and his buddies. He wants the theme to be dragons, yin yang, water, and fire. I have ideas but don't know how to put it all together to my it all flow. There's a stair case that leads to the room that he would like to post signs.
His picked one main wall to have mural on and then wants accent drawings on te other walls. I've thought of useing a stencil to create dragon figures in the texture of the walls.
My plan is to make te room warm and inviting with an air of a dragons layer/dragon slayers layer.
Can you please point this lost single mom who has some artistic skills in the right direction. Where can I get ideas, bounce things off designers that do this for a living.
Jennifer Pantner
Kuna, Idaho
Posted by: Jennifer at November 7, 2006 1:47 PM
Hi,
I want to stain new wood stairs: the treads will be cherry, the risers will be jacobean. I plan to stain and polyurethane the cherry treads first so any splash/drips from the jacobean risers will be easily cleaned up. Is there a better way to do this?
Many thanx and huge hug,
Bambi
A huge hug straight back at ya!
That is exackly the way I would do it. Just keep the steps well covered when applying the stain to the risers. Use a thin blade that you can pick up at any hardware store that is normally used for cutting in baseboards next to carpet.
Also try to use a water based poly as the oil based will change color over the years especially is subject to sunlight.
Best of luck Bambi
Posted by: bambi at June 11, 2007 1:16 PM
Hello. I am in terrible need of a response. I don't know who else to ask. I want to seal off a sliding glass door in the interior with drywall. It must stay looking like a sliding glass door on the outside for the association rules and also the expense of that kind of construction. I need to know exactly how to do this and also my concern is the heat that would come through the glass but have no way to escape indoors since it would be sealed on the inside. Is this safe to do? Thank you for your help. I'm a single mom and I'm trying to make these changes myself. I'm pretty handy with just a bit of instruction. My main concern here is the heat issue.Thank you
Posted by: Katia at August 9, 2007 3:15 AM
we would like to paint our kitchen cupboards as they are very dark and outdated, but they have that fake wood looking veneir stuck to them. what kind of primer do we use? do we need to sand before? please help!
Posted by: michelle at October 3, 2007 3:06 PM
Can I stain the color of the grout in my kitchen? We have just moved and think the grout is too light we have not sealed it yet and wanted to know if it is possible to change the color?
Love your show keep up the great work!
Posted by: susiehomemaker at October 7, 2007 9:49 PM
Hi, I have a painted concrete kitchen floor I am trying to clean and repair. It is powdering in places. I understand I can use muriatic acid to treat and then put something to stop the acid reaction ??? then level with something ??? then seal with something ??? before applying new floor. Thank you so much for any suggestions or clarification you might have.
Posted by: Ann at November 3, 2007 4:32 PM
I am repainting. I plan on using Kiltz paint . Do i still need to use a primer before painting>
Hi Sarah,
No, I believe this is a primer. It should note it on the container. If you have issues with dark stains then I suggest you use a stain blocker first.
This is a good product.
Good luck!
Posted by: Sarah at February 15, 2008 8:37 PM

